Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 “Men of the Frontier“: Gunslinger Denim Pantaloons, Indigo twill & Desert twill.
Here is our fourth installment of the “Men of the Frontier” journey, the denim “GUNSLINGER PANTALOONS”.
Borrowing from both the American West and the Old World, we have mixed European gentlemen’ trousers detailing with early workwear construction and fabrics.
The inspiration for those jeans came in part from this 1904 photo. This saloon scene showcases several interesting trousers styles worn by ranch hands at the turn of the Century. One of the cowboys (second from right) seems to be wearing denim, according to the cuffs showing the contrasting reverse of the fabric. A closer zoom reveals an obscure European trousers pattern, not a ‘classic’ five pocket type pants.
So we went with our own original trousers pattern, staying away from the more obvious Lee/Levi’s/Wrangler type work jeans back yoke piecing/pocketing. (As once mentioned in front of a Denim Industry audience, the genius iconic “501” must be the most actively milked cow in the jeans making racket… not a crowd pleasing statement.)
We had two different denim twill exclusively woven in Japan for this collection, both inspired by vintage swatches from our archives. One indigo denim with indigo back, and one white back unbleached natural denim. Both were milled in limited quantities, not the easiest nor cheapest stage of the making of those jeans.
Those jeans are also Made in Califonia, US of A
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by both the New and the Old World. European type trousers tailoring mixed with work wear construction.
FABRIC: The Gunslinger Pantaloons come in two very different fabric options (not two colors of the same fabric.)
Exclusively milled for us in Japan, in limited batches.
a) MFSC Indigo denim twill: Dark Indigo warp x dark Indigo weft, 100% selvedge Cotton, 12.4 Oz., Solid white selvedge ID. A very rich dark indigo color, with purple hues, in and out.
b) MFSC Desert denim twill: Natural warp x White weft, 100% selvedge Cotton, 12.8 Oz., Solid white selvedge ID. This is not your typical off white twill. This fabric has a lot of texture, character, ring and slub.
* Higher type rise, early work pants type silhouette.
* Selvedge outer seam.
* 100% cotton natural color sail cloth pocket bags and seat lining.
* Gun metal color donut button fly. Double button waist band closure and inner waist tab.
* Cinch back strap and selvedge gusset. NOS metal sharp prong buckle (we have sadly run out of our stock of these, so this is one of the last time we use them for production)
* Five wide belt loops, unbalanced positioning.
* Original pattern single back pocket. The pocket ‘bell shape’ and specific selvedge construction allows storage for larger items.
* Flat felled inseam and seat construction.
* Copper riveted back pocket and back strap.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
PACKAGING: For the USA, the GUNSLINGER’S come in an old school cardboard box with original MF artwork. This sturdy box can be used for storage of small items, please re-use.
Both denim options come RAW (un-washed). Both fabrics are un-sanforized and will shrink down to the same fit after several wash/soak/dry cycles.
The Desert denim (natural) shrinks ‘faster’ than the Indigo denim. I recommend doing an original cold soak and hung dry. See how it fits and take it from there. With rinsing/wearing, the fabrics will shrink/stretch back and forth for a while and settle eventually.
Because of the back gusset, the waist can expand 1 ¾ inch when the back strap is not cinched, quite useful around Turkey Day. The measurements on the chart below are done with the gusset opened, with more shrinkage to come.
I am about a true 31 waist, and wear a waist 30 in those. I have only done an original cold soak/no agitation/line dry with both pair, so there is some more shrinkage to come. The indigo pair looks a bit wider than the natural pair, but I’ll wait until a wash is really needed.
Do not just wash your indigo gunslinger’s in hope of fading them faster, wear them instead.
Click on chart below for measurements of the INDIGO Gunslinger’s (the measurements are similar for the Desert version):
DISCLAIMER: Because of the nature of the double indigo dyed yarn, bleeding is expected with the INDIGO denim twill, on BOTH sides of the fabric. You WILL get some color rubbing on other garments and body, legs and Tony Montana type sofas alike. The bleeding stops overtime after normal wear/wash, and overtime, your gunslinger’s will get an amazing patina inside AND out.
Garment designed and manufactured in California, USA by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co (MFSC). Limited Edition
Waist 28 x L36
Waist 30 x L36
Waist 32 x L36
Waist 34 x L36
Waist 36 x L36
Waist 38 x L36
Recommended reading and viewing:
* “The West“, a 1996 Stephen Ives/Ken Burns documentary
* “Jeans of the Old West” by Michael Harris
* “Saloons, Bars and Cigar Stores” by Roger E Kinslingbury
* DenimBro denim workwear research interactive forum