Introducing “The SPORTSMAN” Collection, Mister Freedom® MFSC Spring 2013 (1 of 3): SPORTSMAN Shirt

Sportsman Shirts©2013 Mister Freedom®

Sportsman Shirts©2013 Mister Freedom®

“The SPORTSMAN” Collection
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co
Spring 2013

This fine year, 2013, we are introducing a new concept collection, in parallel with our ongoing MFSC collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
‘The SPORTSMAN’ line will not have a specific story with fictitious characters behind it, and will just be about a Mister Freedom® take on beloved classic items we like to wear around here.
The idea is not to re-invent the wheel nor come up with the banana-bending-machine, but rather to put our twist on time tested garments such as chino pants, work shirts, blue jeans, T-shirts, leather jackets…
Style influences and references for ‘The Sportsman’ line will be drawn from the same mixed bag vault of vintage photos, old silhouettes, California, 1940′s-70′s movies, mental pictures and record covers and vintage clothing that have always inspired us.
‘The Sportsman’ line up will basically be about garments you would have found dusty stacks of in pre-1970′s Army/Navy, Western or surplus stores. Things for dudes, with a non-trend approach.

Sportsman collection Spring 2013 Mister Freedom®

We will continue to carry these items at the MF® store all year round and restock when possible.
New pieces will be introduced every season and added to ‘The Sportsman’ catalog.
The fabrics we will use will either be New Old Stock (NOS) from USA/Europe or milled in Japan from vintage swatches from our crowded archives.
We will thrive to have it all ethically made in USA, and not mass produced in China or Bangladesh (we’re still holding those grounds.)
Our friends at Sugar Cane Co will have our back and help out with providing outstanding patterns, trim sourcing and fabric milling.
Quality and value will be what you have come to expect from us, style what you have seen us do for a few years. As with the rest of the things we make, we guarantee that each piece of ‘The Sportsman’ will age nicely with proper wear. We have been told that our products retain market value as well, not a bad thing in this disposable goods market…

We know this is not a revolution in the garment industry, don’t alert the media, but we are still very excited!
Thank you always for the support and for allowing us to design and manufacture wearables we like.

And now, to kick off “The Sportsman” for Spring 2013, let’s start by introducing the SPORTSMAN SHIRT.
Simple design, a non-trendy MF® take on traditional work-meets-casual shirting.

You’ll notice some MF® ‘signature’ details for this shirt, such as original pocketing, double expansion pleats, inside green chain-stitch, traditional woven rayon label…

There are three fabric options this season. One is an old stock, and two were exclusively milled in Japan for us.

Designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFSC, inspired by our vintage influences.

FABRIC: Three options:
a) Indigo Popeline: Indigo dyed fine 100% cotton popeline, selvedge. Milled and dyed in Japan to our specs.
b) Chambray: Crispy 100% cotton chambray, white ID selvedge. Milled in Japan to our specs (from a 1940′s textile swatch)
c) Hickory: NOS 100% cotton hickory stripe twill. Origin USA.
DETAILS:
* Made in California, USA.
* Relaxed silhouette and fit.
* Original chest inverted box-pleat double pockets.
* Slim chin strap.
* Full button front.
* Original painted embossed metal buttons, combination solid and MFSC branding.
* White cotton popeline button facing strip.
* Double front & back expansion pleats on shoulder yoke.
* One piece cuff gusset.
* 100% cotton thread, high stitch count.
* Flat felled seams, with inside green chainstich signature.
* Side gussets with selvedge fabric.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label.
* Traditional front tail sizing ink stamp.

SIZING/WASHING:
This shirt should be pretty low maintenance, but we still recommend gentle cold wash and line dry. As always, wash when dirty, not when you want a nice instant fade.
If you are usually a medium in MFSC shirting, wear a medium in the ‘Sportsman Shirt’. The shirt will shrink to tagged size. Refer to chart below for raw/rinsed/line dried measurements:

CHART

Available RAW/unwashed.
SIZES:
14½
(Small)
15½
(Medium)
16½
(Large)
17½
(X-Large)
18½
(XX-Large)

RETAIL
a) Indigo popeline $279.95
b) Chambray $279.95
c) Hickory $259.95

Call 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. As always, thank you sincerely for your support.

“RANCHERO Shirt” Mister Freedom® MFSC Spring 2013 (“Viva la Revolución” Collection, Part 7/7)

Ranchero Shirts ©2013 Mister Freedom®

“RANCHERO Shirt” Mister Freedom® MFSC
Viva la Revolución’ Collection, Spring 2013

Here we go with the final chapter of our ‘Viva la Revolución’ venture for this season.

The Ranchero design is inspired (no breaking news here) by vintage shirting, combined with some MF® signature elements. Inspiration was drawn from old movies, vintage photos and classic silhouettes. We mixed a bit of early work shirts, Indian ‘traditional’ tunics (if you are a casualty of Facebook, make up for wasted time looking at vacation photos of people you don’t know by checking this page), Old West shirting, ethnic garb, European fancy shirts, stirred it all up, and dipped it in the MF® salsa…

Chiricahua Apache 1886 Dobby Loom 1890

The ‘cut away’ collar pattern was inspired by late 1800′s European homemade farmer blouses & early Mexican and Mestizos tops.
We have developed two very different fabrics for the Ranchero:
a)  ”Dobby Stripe”: a fine white 100% cotton broadcloth woven with a Dobby loom. This specific fabric was duplicated from a rare vintage piece, the fancy plastron of a 1920′s European Henley shirt (actually the inspiration for the Charro Bib Henley.) It was expertly woven in Japan. The tiny color accents are woven black and navy yarns, and not a print.
b) “Indigo Calico”: a crispy 100% cotton selvedge popeline, indigo dyed to our specific hue, with a discharge AND a ‘madder’ red tiny print, inspired by several vintage swatches from our archives.
On a side note, many seem to have gotten on the ‘Indigo Calico’ bandwagon in the recent years, they can now figure out how to add a color on top. I wrote a bit about the discharge process for a previous shirt we made, the ‘Calico Trade Shirt’. The indigo dyed popeline base for the Ranchero is the same base fabric we used for our indigo Apache ‘Chemise Calico‘ in late 2010.

With an all original MF® pattern and two fabric options, the Ranchero is a pretty versatile shirt that can go dressy or casual, according to what you will match it with.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co under our MFSC collaboration. Limited Edition.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern inspired by vintage early shirting from the Americas and Europe.
FABRIC: Two options
a) “Dobby Stripe”: Fine white 100% cotton broadcloth woven with a dobby loom.
b) “Indigo Calico”: 100% cotton selvedge popeline, indigo dyed, with a discharge and a ‘madder’ red tiny print.
DETAILS:
* ‘Old West’ type silhouette.
* Full button front.
* Double button collar closure.
* Original MF® box pleat single chest pocket and ‘cut away’ collar.
* Cotton indigo popeline button hole placket facing, white cotton popeline button facing strip.
* Rounded front tail and square back tail.
* High stitch count chain stitch flat felled seam construction.
* Selvedge side gusset (self with indigo version and indigo popeline on Dobby stripe option)
* Sheared wrist cuffs.
* Double front and back shoulder yoke expansion pleats, a MF® signature.
* Painted embossed metal buttons, 1930′s workwear type.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.

SIZING/WASHING:
This is not a tight fitting shirt, unlike our original Utility chambray from the “Naval Clothing Tailor” days for instance. Wear a medium if you are a medium in mfsc though.
Both fabric come raw/unwashed, and will shrink to tagged size.
We recommend an original cold wash on gentle cycle, minimal eco-friendly detergent and line dry.

Sizing Chart coming soon

Available RAW/unwashed
Sizes: Small, Medium, Large, X-Large

Retail
a) White $399.95
b) Indigo $399.95

Call 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. As always, thank you sincerely for your support.

“CHARRO BIB Henley”, Mister Freedom® MFSC Spring 2013 (“Viva la Revolución” Collection, Part 6/7)

Charro Bib ©2013 Mister Freedom®

“CHARRO Bib Henley” by Mister Freedom® MFSC
Viva la Revolución’ Collection, Spring 2012

‘Henley’ type shirts seem to have their origin in the town of Henley-on-Thames, England. Pull over, open neck with button placket, they were worn by local Rowing team members.
Fast-forwarding a bit…

Before T-shirts were introduced (not sure about the date, i think it was a Tuesday though), button placket pull over cotton knit undershirts were a common layer of a man’s outfit in Europe, both for civilian and military use. These were used as undershirts, not intended to be worn as an outer layer. In the ‘old days’, showing your undershirt in public would have been a faux-pas, today’s equivalent to wearing your pajamas on a date, a rhinestone logo T-shirt on the street… all the way to exposing underpants label to the unfortunate ones walking behind. But I’m diverging.

The most common henleys are usually made of a solid cotton knit jersey body, with a matching button placket (at times replaced or lined with a popeline/sateen placket.)
The inspiration for our Charro Bib Henley was drawn from several unusual vintage 1920′s European Henley type shirts from our archives. These had the traditional jersey knit body but also a front plastron made of fancy shirting fabric, and a band collar with studs for attaching a removable collar of the same fancy fabric. They were the ‘poor man’ fancy shirt, as they required less costly fabric to manufacture (a solid cotton knit jersey being a cheaper fabric than a woven jacquard calico printed textile for example.) When wearing a waistcoat and a coat on top, the norm, no-one knew you were ‘missing’ the sleeves and most of the body…

With that story in mind, we tweaked the design a bit, and created two different versions of the Charro Bib Henley.
a) White 18/single (referring to the weight) tubular (loopwheel) cotton knit jersey body, with a white ‘Dobby Stripe’ woven jacquard calico printed plastron (some NOS from our previous Chemise Fantaisie).
b) Deep indigo dyed 18/single cotton knit jersey body (with side seams), with an indigo dyed discharge calico printed cotton popeline. We were happy to discover some NOS yardage from our previous Chemise Calico aka the ‘Johnny Depp‘ shirt. This is how this fabric will fade over time.
All above textiles milled/dyed/printed in Japan.

Our charro bib can be worn as a regular shirt, or an undershirt for a layering look.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co under our MFSC collaboration. Limited Edition.

SPECS:
* PATTERN: An original mfsc pattern, inspired by 1920′s vintage European Henleys.
* FABRICS: Two options
a) White 18/single tubular (loopwheel) cotton knit jersey body, with a white woven jacquard calico printed plastron.
b) Deep indigo dyed 18/single cotton knit jersey body (with side seams), with an indigo dyed discharge calico printed cotton popeline.

DETAILS:
* 18/single 100% cotton jersey body
* Fancy popeline/jacquard plastron
* Band collar
* Three button front closure, 30′s work-wear style metal painted buttons.
* Tonal cotton popeline shirting style cuffs.
* Underarm gusset piece.
* Half moon back neck reinforcement piece.
* Original mfsc woven rayon ‘hanging loop’ style label.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.

SIZING/WASHING:
Hand wash only, cold water, gentle cycle, minimal eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.
With the indigo dyed version, some minimal bleeding is expected and normal (bleeding will wash off eventually.)
Wear a medium if you are generally a medium in Mister Freedom® mfsc shirts.

Available RAW/unwashed
Sizes: Small, Medium, Large, X-Large

Retail
a) White $149.95
b) Indigo $159.95

Call 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. As always, thank you sincerely for your support.

“HACENDADO Waistcoat”, Mister Freedom® MFSC Spring 2013 (“Viva la Revolución” Collection, Part 5/7)

The King walks in Mister Freedom®, April 1rst 2013

“HACENDADO Waistcoat” Mister Freedom® MFSC
Viva la Revolución’ Collection, Spring 2012

Introducing the third addition to our three piece Hacendado suit, with matching trousers and sack coat.
Coincidentally, the King showed up at the store today, to try a few things on. A new movie on the horizon maybe? A follow up to “Charro”?
Let’s not get lost in conjecture, as EP has now left the building. Glad we were able to snap a candid photo, when he came out of the dressing room.
We’ll just mark this April 1rst as a memorable day, thankyaverymuch…

Anyways.
We shamelessly borrowed and adopted the pattern of our “Faro Waistcoat” and made this vest in three fabric options, developed for this season:
Stripe: Tan and indigo dyed yarns plain weave pinstripe pattern, a crispy blend of 55% hemp and 45% cotton, 6.8 oz., solid tan selvedge, inspired by a textile swatch from a 1930′s vintage waistcoat.
Homespun: Natural/earth tones dyed yarns plain weave textile, a heavier blend of 68% hemp and 32% cotton, 11 oz., solid white selvedge, inspired by a turn of the century homespun French textile from a vintage South-West of France farmer blouse.
Baja Denim: Lighter shade indigo dyed denim, 2×1 twill, 100% cotton, 6.5 oz., inspired by a specific indigo shade typical of Mexican artisan dyers of the time, selected from several vintage textiles of the area.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co., a limited edition.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFSC®, inspired by late 1800’s gents’ waistcoats. High buttoned, small fold lapel, slim snug silhouette.

FABRIC:
FRONT PANEL
a) ‘Stripe’ option: 6.8 oz selvedge hemp/cotton woven textile. Body lined with inner ‘sandwiched’ (as opposed to a ‘floating’ lining) 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline. Arms lined with vintage 100% cotton NOS stripe plain weave fabric.
b) ‘Homespun’ option: 11 oz. selvedge hemp/cotton woven textile. Front panels lined with inner ‘sandwiched’ 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline (unlined rear panels for this option). Arms lined with vintage 100% cotton NOS stripe plain weave fabric.
c) ‘Baja Denim’ option: 6.5 oz. indigo dyed denim 2×1 twill, solid white selvedge, 100% cotton. Body lined with inner ‘sandwiched’ 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline. Arms lined with vintage 100% cotton NOS stripe plain weave fabric.
FRONT PANEL and UNDER COLLAR lining: 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline.
BACK PANEL: Tightly woven all cotton sateen.

DETAILS:
* Intricate early waistcoat panel construction. Tailor made style.
* Adjustable back cinch strap with French New Old Stock (NOS) metal slide buckle.
* Eight button front, brown corrozo wood, aka ‘coconut wood’.
* Two front lower welt pockets
* 100% cotton thread tonal stitching.
* MFSC woven rayon label concealed under the back strap (an old tailoring detail on early custom tailor-made waistcoats, that usually included the customer name and the date, hand written)

PACKAGING: An original MF® printed denim draw string bag, reusable as a grocery bag, hand-made in our Los Angeles studio.

SIZING/SHRINKAGE:
All three fabric options come RAW (unwashed). We recommend cold soak and line dry, which will result in minimal shrinkage and no color loss. All Hacendado waistcoats will ultimately shrink to tagged size. Fuller shrinkage will be obtained with gentle machine cycle and low heat dryer, at your own risks.
The hemp/cotton blends will retain the desirable wrinkle effect typical of linen type textiles and ‘tropical’ look.
Refer to sizing chart below for approximate measurements:

BAJA Hacendado Waistcoat ©2013 Mister Freedom®

BAJA Hacendado Waistcoat

 

HOMESPUN Hacendado Waistcoat ©2013 Mister Freedom®

HOMESPUN Hacendado Waistcoat

Available RAW/Unwashed.
Size 36, 38, 40, 42, 44

Retail $499.95

Call 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. As always, thank you sincerely for your support.

“HACENDADO Trousers”, Mister Freedom® MFSC Spring 2013 (“Viva la Revolución” Collection, Part 4/7)

Hacendado Trousers ©2013 Mister Freedom®

Mister Freedom® MFSC “HACENDADO Trousers”
Viva la Revolución’ Collection, Spring 2012

To complement our hacendado sack coat, here is the second part of the three piece suiting series for Spring 2013.
Inspired by several pattern of 1900′s to 1930′s slacks, the hacendado flat front trousers’ silhouette is reminiscent of classic 1920′s slacks, such as the tropical garb made by “Palm Beach Mills” (Goodall Company, Cincinnati, Ohio.) Vintage clothing aficionados might be familiar with that awesome label (see 1920 Ad below).

Palm Beach Mills 1920 Ad

Our hacendado trousers come in three fabric options:
Stripe: Tan and indigo dyed yarns plain weave pinstripe pattern, a crispy blend of 55% hemp and 45% cotton, 6.8 oz., solid tan selvedge, inspired by a textile swatch from a 1930′s vintage waistcoat.
Homespun: Natural/earth tones dyed yarns plain weave textile, a heavier blend of 68% hemp and 32% cotton, 11 oz., solid white selvedge, inspired by a turn of the century homespun French textile from a vintage South-West of France farmer blouse.
Baja Denim: Lighter shade indigo dyed denim, 2×1 twill, 100% cotton, 6.5 oz., inspired by a specific indigo shade typical of Mexican artisan dyers of the time, selected from several vintage textiles of the area.

Spring 2013 Fabrics swatches Hacendado ©2013 Mister Freedom®

Again, wearing a matching set is definitely a statement, and mismatching the fabrics a good alternative. These trousers can also be paired with less ‘dressy’ clothes and footwear to tone them down, as often seen of period photography (out of necessity more than as a fashion statement.)
Cuffing options are up to you as well, I personally opted for a standard 1¼ fold with my own pairs.

All designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co. Limited edition.

SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by several vintage trousers from the 1900′s to the 1930′s. Elegant silhouette, for Gents not into skinny bottoms, or tights.
FABRICS:
a) ‘Stripe’ option: 6.8 oz selvedge hemp/cotton woven textile. Body lined with inner ‘sandwiched’ (as opposed to a ‘floating’ lining) 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline. Arms lined with vintage 100% cotton NOS stripe plain weave fabric.
b) ‘Homespun’ option: 11 oz. selvedge hemp/cotton woven textile. Front panels lined with inner ‘sandwiched’ 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline (unlined rear panels for this option). Arms lined with vintage 100% cotton NOS stripe plain weave fabric.
c) ‘Baja Denim’ option: 6.5 oz. indigo dyed denim 2×1 twill, solid white selvedge, 100% cotton. Body lined with inner ‘sandwiched’ 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline. Arms lined with vintage 100% cotton NOS stripe plain weave fabric.

DETAILS:
* Higher rise, fit seat and fuller legs.
* Wide waistband with double button closure.
* Selvedge leg side seams.
* Thin belt loops, trousers style.
* “Italian” type front pockets, with fabric selvedge fold and early European arcuate decorative stitch.
* “Smiley” type rear welt pockets, with arcuate stitch. MF®, again putting a smile on your buns.
* Four button fly.
* Corozo wood buttons, aka ‘coconut wood’.
* Adjustable side cinch straps with French NOS metal slider buckles.
* MFSC stripe ticking 100% cotton waist lining and pocket bags. Fly facing with all cotton unbleached popeline.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.

PACKAGING: An original MF® printed denim draw string bag, reusable as a grocery bag, hand-made in our Los Angeles studio.

SIZING/SHRINKAGE:
All three fabric options come RAW (unwashed). We recommend cold soak and line dry, which will result in minimal shrinkage and no color loss. All Hacendado trousers will ultimately shrink to tagged size. Fuller shrinkage will be obtained with gentle machine cycle and low heat dryer, at your own risks.
The hemp/cotton blends will retain the desirable wrinkle effect typical of linen type textiles and ‘tropical’ look.
The waist fit is ‘generous’, so if you are an actual 32” waist, get a marked 32 (see below fit pix of stripe hacendado trousers, waist 32, rinsed and hung dry, with extra Pelvis shot ;-)

Hacendado Trousers silly fit pix ©2013 Mister Freedom®

Refer to sizing charts below for approximate measurements:

Baja Trousers Sizing Mister Freedom® ©2013

Baja

STRIPE Trousers Sizing Mister Freedom® ©2013

Stripe

HOMESPUN Trousers Sizing Mister Freedom® ©2013

Homespun

Available RAW/Unwashed.
Waist SIZE 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
(Length after rinsing 34”)

Retail $539.95

Call 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. As always, thank you sincerely for your support.